Tainan and Hot Pots

I woke as I always do, before dawn. I got dressed and went downstairs. I needed some coffee and the espresso machine was just what I wanted. Grabbing my coffee, I walked outside to see the familiar sights again in the daylight. Like most cities around the world, Taiwanese like to sleep a little later on Sundays. For such a large city, the streets of Taipei are pretty deserted at this time, with an occasional scooter or delivery truck. A man sweeping the garbage off of the sidewalk in front of his shop. Another man running into 7-Eleven to get the daily paper. I watched them for a bit as the daylight got brighter.

We ate breakfast around 7:30 and decided to leave for the MRT station. Our train to Tainan didn't leave until 11:00, but we still needed to get to Taipei Main Station and also get something to eat for lunch on the train. We walked across MinSheng West road and walked through the morning market in search of something for lunch. Do we want fruit? Fruit would have been nice, but there's no real way to cut it up on the train. We decide on "粽子" or "Rice dumplings", it is pronounced Zongzi, but in Taiwanese, it's "Bahtsang". I had had them before and they are really tasty. Since Monday is the Dragon Boat Festival, bahtsang are everywhere. I'll tell you more about the festival later. We purchased the "bahtsang" from the same vendor as in January and walked back across the street to the MRT station.

I really enjoyed seeing the familiar sights of the MRT stations. I know it sounds boring, but to me, it's very special and I'll say it again, if you ever some to Taipei, use the MRT. It stops at most of the attraction areas and night markets, plus it is a real bargain.

Once we arrived at the main station, we had to walk to a separate area for the TRA (Taiwan Railway Authority) trains. They are a separate system from the MRT and are usually for longer treks across the country. We still had some time before our train arrived so I did some people watching in the station. Last time I was here, it was winter and everyone was bundled up for the 50 F weather, but now everyone is more casual as I sit and sweat on the subway platform. I check the leader board and see that the train is about 3 minutes from arrival. We gather our things and walk over to the boarding area, designated on our tickets. Once the train arrives, everyone boards and looks for their seats. I was happy that we had assigned seats as last time I had to stand for the train ride. It is going to take 4 hours to arrive in Tainan City and I did not want to stand for the entire journey.

I took the seat by the window so I could take photos. Soon the train pulled out of the station and our journey began. How exciting! A train ride across the island. I am an old school train freak from when I was very little, and still love to stop and watch the trains go by. Seated across from us was a mother and her baby daughter. She looked to be about 3 years old and sang most of the trip. Every time I would look at her, she would "get shy" and hide herself behind her mother, who was desperately trying to sleep. I had to candidly take photos of her from time to time. After every stop, the little girl would wave and say, "bye bye" to those on the platform, as our train left the station. It was really cute.

Every so often, the passenger car would be "reloaded" with different passengers as people would exit the train and more people would take their places. There was a group of girls that were on some trip for school or something. One of them was a large, American girl that was suffering from the humidity like I was. The train was comfortably air conditioned, but the platforms were not. Early on, I noticed that my seat back wouldn't lock, and unless I would sit straight up and not lean on it, it would gradually put me in the supine position with no room for my legs. It was a constant battle the entire ride and so I could not sleep.

Most of the trip I spent observing the landscape as the train progressed further south. Taoyuan, Hsinchu, Taichung, Changhua, Chiayi, Xinying and finally, Tainan. There were many more stops along the way, but these were the bigger stops. The train wound through farmland and rice fields. I began to notice that where ever it was possible or went without regulatory enforcement, little vegetable gardens filled every little space along the tracks. Whether it was a one square meter plot or third of an acre, someone grew vegetables on it. It was really a sight to see the lack of unused space as we see in the U.S. There was a baseball field inside the river's levee. Although the river was down, the levee told me it was there for a good reason. The land is very lush and tropical. I noticed large Buddhist statues in the mountains to the east. Finally, around 3PM, the train stopped in Tainan City.




We grab our bags and exit the train. It is hot and very humid. The sky is clear and there is almost no breeze. Sweat begins to bead up on my forehead and run down my temples. My shirt begins to soak as I make my way through the station to the exit. I have to wait out front with the bags while JiaJia gets her scooter from the parking spot she put it. I snap a couple of pictures of the station. She pulls up on the bike and tells me she will take the bags home and then come back to get me. The scooter is only a 50cc bike and could not transport me, her and the luggage. I agree and just relax in the shade. "Boy, is it hot." I think to myself as I look at the residents of Tainan pass by and stare. I smile and nod my head. Many of them smile back. After a few moments, JiaJia returns and I climb on the back of the scooter and off we go. Because the scooter is so small, it does not have passenger pegs, so I literally hold my feet up off the ground, hoping to not lose a flipflop along the way. It has been years since I was on the back of any type of two wheeled vehicle and I know it was difficult for her to steer with me shifting the weight every 10 feet.

JiaJia and Ben’s family home is about 10 minutes drive from the station, mostly due to traffic. We arrive and I dismounted the bike while she parked it. I look around and take in my surroundings. It is a typical apartment style high rise with only a hand full of floors. Not the impressive skyscrapers you see in photos of Hong Kong. The facade is of a very light mauve colored tile. There are balconies and many windows. The entrance reveals a quaint courtyard with trees and several planters. The "wheelchair accessible" ramp going up to the half-floor level elevator area is so steep, I would never want to attempt it without several safety persons, should I slip and start to roll backwards. We walk up the steps and enter the elevator. Floor six is the winner and we proceed upward. There are two apartments/condominiums on each floor. That makes for a nice sized home. The entrance is through a couple of security doors, that lead to the balcony. Once on the balcony, shoes are removed and you step inside. Everyone was awaiting my arrival. I was soaked with sweat looking like I had run from the train station. I met "伯父" BoFu or "Uncle" and "伯母" BoMu or "Aunt". I knew it was more of a respectful term for an elder. "BoFu, BoMu, nimen hao." (Uncle, Aunt, Hello) I said when I first walked inside. I was introduced to big brother, "Ni Hao" and his wife and kids. And of course, my old friend, Ben. I spoke English with him. I was asked to sit and I was given a glass of water. I spoke English and it was, of course, translated to Chinese or Taiwanese as that is language spoken. "How was the trip from America?", "How many hours does it take?", etc. We all sat and visited for a little while and then it was decided that we would all go to dinner, along with Mei Mei (Little sister) and her husband and two kids.

Their home was very nice and spotless. I won't describe the features in respect to the family, but I will say, I was very impressed.

Everyone piled into cars and onto scooters and all ten of us headed for the restaurant.

The restaurant "Takara" is a great place to take the family. The main theme was "Hot Pots" and you tell the waiter, which sauce you want for your base. Then you go around to select which vegetables, meats, etc., you want in your "pot". The "pot" is a steel cauldron that is set into the table and your own "gas hot plate" underneath, that you can control. You basically, cook your own Hot Pot like you want it, yourself. They have many different ingredients to add. There is also a sushi buffet, a table full of various fried finger foods and a dessert bar. I was able to assemble my ingredients and even added a Thai flair, as I love spicy Asian food. I found that I should have waited to add the octopus and shrimp until the hotpot was almost ready. Instead, I added them at the beginning. The octopus turned into tire rubber and the shrimp, all but disintegrated.

Big brother's daughter and little sister's son came and stood next to me and practiced their English. They were very nice kids, a little shy at first, but began to feel more confident as the evening progressed. I ended my meal with an ice cream cone and the help of a friendly little Taiwanese girl who was determined to remain in charge of the scoop. I thanked her and proceeded to enjoy my Häagen-Dazs treat. We all watched the 3 and 4 year olds play and size each other up. Typical toddler mischief.

After dinner, big brother and his family drove back to Taichung. I was honored that they came to meet me. (Actually, they came to visit his parents, but I like to think I was that special). Ben and I sat in the living room and discussed classical music and the Chinese economy. He told me about the project he was working on. Soon, it was getting close to midnight and I decided to get ready for bed. My room was Japanese style with a raised wooden floor for a bed. Along with bamboo mat, a pillow and a fan.

Tomorrow we go to the Confucius Temple and celebrate Dragon Boat Festival.